Whaleback

 
Whaleback, the brooding hill which rises over 300 feet above the western shoreline of Leelanau County, has been the subject of concern and speculation for many years. The largest undeveloped tract of shoreline property remaining in Leelanau County, the big hill just south of Leland is one of the most recognizable landscape features in Leelanau. Over the years, many people have expressed concern for the future of this landmark, encouraging the Conservancy to work toward the preservation of the property. There seems to be a special quality to this particular place. In the spring, fingers of fog move up the deep ravines in the western face of the hill. Most people have never set foot on the property, but many look up at Whaleback from Lake Michigan or across Lake Leelanau, and they want to think it will stay pretty much the way it looks right now.

Named for its whalelike silhouette, Whaleback is a point of focus for anyone looking out over Lake Michigan, from any high vantage point in the northern half of Leelanau County, as well as from many Lake Michigan beaches. Encompassing 117 acres and 3700 feet of lakeshore, Whaleback’s towering bluffs rise 300 feet above Lake Michigan and yield spectacular views.

This is a very pretty hike with a gradual ascent through hardwoods that in the fall provide an excellent color tour hike. In the spring, sweet woodruff crowds the understory. This pretty, sweet-smelling plant is an invasive species that gives the woodland an almost fairy-like appearance; unfortunately it chokes out all but the hardiest natives, such as baneberry, jack-in-the-pulpit and squirrel corn. Conservancy naturalists are working to create a more balanced environment.

As you walk north along the top of the bluffs, look left for a patch of thimbleberries (their leaves resemble those of the maple). A very common plant near Lake Superior, thimbleberries only grow in this one stretch of the natural area, and they are extremely uncommon in Leelanau County.

Before reaching the overlook, notice how tall hemlocks and hardwoods create a cathedralesque canopy. These trees often shelter bald eagles — look for them flying above the observation deck as well as out over the water.

From the viewing platform, you’ll see just how fragile this bluff is. On its western- most face, erosion has caused plants to lose their footing. Here, gravel and sand rumble down the bluffs into the lake. If vegetation does maintain a roothold in these exposed areas, what grows is usually ash, birch, pine, and hemlock. Don’t guess these trees’ age from their size. Poor soil on steep slopes has stunted the growth of some real old-timers!

Getting There…

The trailhead sign for the Whaleback area is on M-22, just south of Leland. Turn and park in the trailhead parking lot.

Clues…

NOTE: The terrain here is rigorous — there is at least a 1/2 mile uphill stretch on a narrow, rough, rocky path on the way in.

Follow the main trail as it gradually heads uphill to the viewing deck. After taking in the gorgeous view of Lake Michigan, make your way back to the main trail and head north on the outer loop. When you come upon a trail at 135 degrees, stop at the intersection. See a split trunk at 115 degrees, about 25 paces from where you stand. Please take a round about way to reach the trunk so a social path does not form. Find the box hiding in the trunk.